Fall for Alessandro Dell'Acqua is all about strong femininity. The designer played with many of the recurring themes that have surfaced in recent seasons—asymmetric sheer dresses, layered transparencies and hard-edged suits—and made them his own.

Relying mostly on a stark palette of black, white and tan, Dell'Acqua played up the contrast between softness and strength for which he is well-known. Sheer tulle tops wafted over bondage-like bandeau straps. Satin blazers and pencil skirts provided a sleek alternative to paillette-trimmed chiffon skirts and flouncy dresses. Sleek leather trousers and bombers, tuxedolike coats and metal-heeled strap boots also looked sharp.

As if to remind us that minimalism (and his signature underwear line) can be perfectly sexy, Dell'Acqua sent all the models out for their final tour of the runway in nothing but skimpy body maillots.