Ann Demeulemeester's clothes have soul. With a predominantly black aesthetic dominating and practically every designer jumping on the tough-edge bandwagon, her subtle, richly textured designs appear particularly meaningful this season.

Case in point: Demeulemeester showed a selection of looks that surely required several courses in engineering to complete, but that still managed to look absolutely effortless on the runway. A jacket billowed out to form a cape in the back but came with faux sleeves stitched to the side—in fact, two hidden slits allowed the arms to escape in case of extreme necessity; a hidden cincture dramatically surfaced in the front, giving the silhouette a seemingly inexplicable pinch. Demeulemeester's loose sweater dresses were gathered with multiple-strand skinny belts; leather jackets sat at the hips, while a monastic high-collar coat nearly grazed the floor.

Occasional flashes of color included clouds of dark red on billowy shirts that offered a delicate contrast to the starker looks. A serene, moody soundtrack perfectly complemented the well-thought-out collection.