Models wafted onstage in a zig-zag pattern on Alberta Ferretti's extra-wide runway, ultimately forming a gray and black army of perfectly nice girls exploring their more daring side.

There was a vintage feeling to many of Ferretti's short velvet dresses, wool minishifts and top-stitched leather coats. Everyday basics included sharp, straight trousers, chiffon aqua shirts, pearly satin tops and skirts pleated at the knee. Ferretti's main strength remains her way with frothy, delicate femininity—in her hands, last season's punky strapped dresses became subtly knotted and gathered slips embellished with short streamers and beaded insets, Empire-waist baby-doll dresses, and rough-cut (but always delicate and feather-light) sheaths.