Alexandre Matthieu

PARIS, March 14, 2001
By Armand Limnander
In a grandiose salon of France's Ministry of Foreign Affairs, complete with glittering chandeliers, fresco ceilings and gilded walls, newcomers Alexandre Morgado and Matthieu Bureau presented their second formal collection.

Emphasizing their love of tailoring, Morgado and Bureau went for precise, low-buttoned tuxedo jackets with rounded lapels paired with double-cuff trousers; graphic star prints were shown layered on dresses to create a quasi-holographic effect, while leather jackets and traditional frocks were cheekily adorned with swirling ribbons. Alexandre Matthieu's playful take on ladylike dressing included a cross-your-heart puff of fur, a long dress with a trompe-l'oeil bolero detail, and a beaded silver-and-black coat worn with stockings that would've looked perfectly appropriate on an extravagant circus ringmistress.

Forgoing the heavy-handed conceptualism of many new designers in favor of a light, joyous approach to design, Morgado and Bureau are well on their way to carving out a distinctive niche for themselves.

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