Roberto Menichetti not only wants to update Burberry's image; he is intent on propelling the label into the future by exploring the interaction between classic notions of elegance and cutting-edge materials.

Menichetti kept frills to a minimum, working with a restrained palette of pale gray, navy, beige and putty; roomy safari coats with chic tunnel belts were thrown over sensible shirts and trousers in "stretch" and "carbon," new fabrics that maintain the body's temperature. But technological fibers met their match with fine boiled cashmere turtlenecks, wool gabardine wrap skirts, and milk-soaked leather overcoats and motorcycle jackets. Menichetti also showed a couple of large-cut blazers that revived a vintage version of Burberry's signature plaid and looked subtle and restrained, in keeping with the minimal spirit of the collection.