Bottega Veneta creative director Laura Moltedo officially appointed British newcomer Giles Deacon designer of the well-known leather label this season. With this move, and after having been recently purchased by the Gucci conglomerate, Bottega Veneta is undergoing a major face-lift that could lead to a completely new identity.

Deacon made no bones about the house's shift in direction. Weathered, zippered and extra-wide jeans opened the show, followed by tiny miniskirts slashed with zippers and funky jackets with flashy metallic fastenings. A leather puffy jacket was drop-dead cool; the same can be said of a woven-leather overcoat and a couple of black corduroy suits with leather shoulder insets. A series of green-and-yellow logo looks was not as successful; but on the whole, Deacon established a strong, dramatic image that is sure to put the spotlight on Bottega Veneta.