Having thoroughly exhausted the minutiae of white-trash glamour, John Galliano turned to global ravers, fabulous hip-hop queens and Irish-gypsy boxers à la Brad Pitt's character in Snatch for inspiration.

Sound confusing? Relax. Call it what you will, Galliano delivered some of the most relevant clothes Dior has seen in seasons. Pinstripe suits with leather and flower-print front plackets, neo-dandy check blazers, leather overcoats, rakish hats, and colorful foulards and ties all gave Dior a new—and commercially rewarding—dimension. "Boom box" bags, large circular cases, denim saddle totes and metallic lunchboxes will also keep cash registers busy at Dior boutiques worldwide.

That's not to say that Galliano was denied his fun. Witness his holographic silver jackets, ghetto-blaster graffiti ensembles, unlined, zigzag chinchillas and shiny patent blousons. In lesser hands the whirlpool of references would've fizzled out, but Galliano's thuggish suits, fandango skirts, gypsy-hippie dresses, patchwork coats, and boxing robes and trousers all worked wonderfully.