Michael Kors' New York equestrienne did not show up at Celine; instead, she turned to Nantucket and Berlin for sartorial inspiration.

Kors' forte has always been relaxed sportswear—and his opening look, a distressed canvas jean, plaid shirtdress and reversible coyote fur, announced that this was to be a particularly pared-down moment. Checkered skirts and blazers, casual burgundy trousers, zip-up jackets and roomy trenches followed, sometimes accessorized with a plush fur neck-wrap.

Kors changed gears from the rustic to the hard-edged with military overcoats, naval trousers, battle jackets and S&M-style leather caps that would've driven Marlene Dietrich to delirium. The eclectic melange continued with wisps of lingerie and rugged tweeds; evening looks consisted of long pleated gowns, fragile slip dresses and bed-ready camisoles worn with rugged boots, enormous bouclé coats and savage furs.