As expected, Christian Lacroix stepped in to add a touch of color and whimsy to a predominantly dark, stark season.

Contrasting solids were played up to the max. Yellow, lime-green and bubblegum-pink turtlenecks were surefire attention grabbers when paired with sorbet furs trimmed with dangling miniature tails and flashy stockings. Lacroix's jackets were reversed and shown over narrow tapestry trousers; a red square-spangled trench shimmered in the light, while a long, black suede dress with studded leather insets and long streamers brought to mind hard-core chic.

At times, however, Lacroix's flights of fancy strayed off compass, and his runway became a hypnotic jumble of sequins, patchwork, ruffles and color-drenched prints that competed simultaneously for attention.