It's an undeniable fact that black reigns supreme this season, but at times runways are acquiring decidedly funereal overtones.

Ennio Capasa has always favored an austere silhouette, so he surely feels at home now that fashion is infatuated with everything dark. Capasa showed a plethora of jackets—oversize with extra-long sleeves, single- and double-breasted, satin-trimmed and plain—paired with an equally exhaustive range of turtleneck tops that seemed to blend into an endless parade of black. A couple of olive coats with pointed shoulders, a miniskirt or two, and several bright green satin suits did little to lighten the weighty atmosphere.

Capasa's cocktail dresses—puzzling collages of embroidered lace, satin and leather—played up the all-too-familiar juxtaposition of hard and soft fabrics that most designers are exploring for Fall, but failed to deliver an innovative twist.