Clements Ribeiro can normally be relied on to deliver chic and accessible clothes with an understated edge. This season, however, the duo aimed for a racier look, with decidedly mixed results.

Individual pieces worked just fine: A couple of bright rugby shirts spoke of casual cool; a corduroy military jacket with a drawstring waist looked great on Alek Wek. Polka-dotted turtlenecks were lighthearted and sweet, while slim trousers, pencil skirts and paillette-front tops remained sharp and to the point. It's a shame the designers didn't stay on that track: A series of leopard-print bombers, overcoats and trousers looked bizarrely out of place; vampy fur vests and asymmetric fly-away dresses failed to make a forceful statement.

By attempting to cover too much ground, Clements Ribeiro's collection lost much of its focus.