Serge Gainsbourg's roué soundtrack set the perfect mood for Emanuel Ungaro's Gallic collection.

A crimson satin blouse with matching knickers, foulard, ribbon-tie heels and tilted beret called for a Pigalle after-hours cabaret and plenty of cigarettes; so did his slinky flyaway dresses and asymmetric muslin tops. Ungaro also delivered plenty of salt-and-pepper tailleurs, window-pane coats and Prince of Wales pantsuits—all rakish and slim, often livened up thanks to ruffled shirts with a solitary graphic button below the shoulder. Cocktail minidresses with gigantic candy-wrap bows, emerald-green trousers and a blinding fuchsia pantsuit reminded us of Ungaro's playful side.

The designer ended his show on a more serene note, with flowing jersey, satin, crepe and taffeta dresses embroidered with delicate little trees and flowers plucked from a Japanese garden.