Gianfranco Ferré's designs walk the line between fashion and architecture, combining couturelike opulence with careful tailoring and construction.

Ferré played a game of extremes, mixing and matching dissonant styles. A fur-lined motorcycle jacket, for example, was thrown carelessly over a sharp gray-flannel suit. Pedestrian jeans were decorated with elaborate tartan brocades, masculine origami-style shirts were bound with black armbands and thick-wale corduroy was put at the service of strict lace-up corsets. Ferré's dramatic evening looks veered from tight tailcoats to silver coats with metallic embroidery à la Ziggy Stardust; organza hankies whipped into bouquet tops and gathered jersey dresses that followed the body's every curve.