Tom Ford opened his show with sharp, narrow trousers and a fitted three-button jacket—the essential Gucci laid-back uniform—making it perfectly clear that mod silhouettes are a key influence for Fall.

Things got progressively interesting as multiple leather-trimmed zippers and large patch-pockets appeared on coats and pants; ruffled sheer pink tops softened the masculine tailoring, while yeti-like furs and massive lamb coats upped the glamour ante.

The overall effect of the collection was one of assured sexiness: Short satin dresses with asymmetric necklines, basic tuxedo jackets and skimpy capelets all looked sophisticated and easy to wear. Ford also kept his accessories strong and simple: Coppery ankle-strap heels and flat boots were enough to make a powerful statement.

For evening, Ford showed a series of sheer lingerie slips with binding brassiere overlays that most women will find less than practical for real life; his square-cut ribbon dresses, equipped with a side zipper for easy escape, were far more arresting.