Die-hard fans of sleek power dressing will find plenty of sharp, no-nonsense basics at Helmut Lang come Fall. After Spring's sex-driven tour de force, the Austrian designer has gone for a more sober approach, referencing some of his own early work in the process.

Lang's mostly black collection revolved around many of his well-known classics: Fitted blazers, narrow trousers and sharp-edged coats continue to work as a modern urban uniform. Lang added some eye-catching touches like plush fur linings on overcoats, policeman-like holsters that curled around the shoulder on empire slips and beaded detailing that peeked out from the edge of liquid tops. Other highlights included sexy, off-kilter after-five dresses with only one sleeve and see-through tulle overlays.

Lang also showed several muted leopard-print suits and skimpy satin dresses with puzzling circular breast pads, but the more straightforward looks were far more commanding.