Amid the many off-schedule shows of London fashion week, newcomer Hamish Morrow's small but extremely powerful presentation decidedly stood out. "I wanted to explore how ideas in fashion are consumed and discarded at an alarming rate," says Morrow, who was recently appointed menswear designer for Fendi and who also consults for Louis Féraud. To get his point across, Morrow used flowers as a leitmotif for his collection, "since they are fragile and exquisite, and have such a short life span." Mind you, these were not your typical floral housedresses, which Morrow admittedly detests. Instead, canvas jackets were hand-painted by an artist friend and then embellished with black tulle appliqués that resembled a giant gothic carnation; form-fitting, sheer lace dresses were made out of four large panels cut like petals. "I like to start with an abstract idea and eventually end up with clothes," explains Morrow, who also studded a black tweed and olive green suit with "big, obnoxious crystal beads that cascade over the body."

In contrast to the streetwise but often unpolished designs of other emerging designers, Morrow makes his point with meticulous attention to detail and couturelike workmanship instead of flashy gimmicks.