Icarius de Menezes
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, May 12, 2001
By Armand Limnander
At 25, Brazilian designer Icarius de Menezes clearly has a talent for precise cutting, which is already obvious in both his flouncy, asymmetric gowns and sharp tailoring. After his debut Paris collection alluding to the gaudy excess of beauty pageants, de Menezes whipped up a heady combination of references for Fall: Fitted white coats and bomber jackets were livened up with a red armband or a dangling streamer; body-hugging jeans and bondage-inspired trousers stood in sharp contrast to his woolly gray suits and quasi-monastic, ethereal capes. Prints on smart blouses and dresses included everything from Hermès-like motifs to magazine images and iconic drawings. Icarius graduated from Brazil's increasingly important Santa Marcelina fashion school and briefly worked at Brazilian Vogue before decamping to the City of Light. "São Paulo is becoming very important in terms of design," he says. "But my big opportunity, for the moment, is in Paris."
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Fall 2001 Ready-to-Wear
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Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Arkadius -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Bottega Veneta Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Cerruti Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Costume National Cynthia Rowley -
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D&G Daryl K Diane von Furstenberg Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang -
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Icarius de Menezes Imitation of Christ -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald -
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Katayone Adeli Kenzo Krizia Top -
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Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson Michael Kors Miguel Adrover Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Olivier Theyskens Oscar de la Renta -
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Pierrot Prada Preen -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Richard Tyler Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Shelley Fox Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Strenesse -
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Thimister Trussardi 1911 Tuleh -
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Ungaro Couture -
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Valentino Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Victor Alfaro Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Tam -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent
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