Icarius de Menezes Fall 2001 Ready-to-Wear Collection on Style.com: Runway Review

Icarius de Menezes

REVIEW

COMPLETE COLLECTION

Icarius de Menezes Fall 2001 Ready-to-Wear

PARIS, May 12, 2001

By Armand Limnander

At 25, Brazilian designer Icarius de Menezes clearly has a talent for precise cutting, which is already obvious in both his flouncy, asymmetric gowns and sharp tailoring. After his debut Paris collection alluding to the gaudy excess of beauty pageants, de Menezes whipped up a heady combination of references for Fall: Fitted white coats and bomber jackets were livened up with a red armband or a dangling streamer; body-hugging jeans and bondage-inspired trousers stood in sharp contrast to his woolly gray suits and quasi-monastic, ethereal capes. Prints on smart blouses and dresses included everything from Hermès-like motifs to magazine images and iconic drawings. Icarius graduated from Brazil's increasingly important Santa Marcelina fashion school and briefly worked at Brazilian Vogue before decamping to the City of Light. "São Paulo is becoming very important in terms of design," he says. "But my big opportunity, for the moment, is in Paris."

See all from Icarius de Menezes › Timeline

F2001RTW

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Alberta Ferretti	Alessandro Dell'Acqua	Alexander McQueen
Alexandre Matthieu	Alice Roi	Anna Sui
Ann Demeulemeester	Antonio Berardi	Arkadius

Badgley Mischka	Balenciaga	BCBG Max Azria
Behnaz Sarafpour	Benjamin Cho	Bernhard Willhelm
Betsey Johnson	Bill Blass	Blaak
Bottega Veneta	Boudicca	Bruce
Burberry Prorsum

Cacharel	Calvin Klein	Carolina Herrera
Celine	Cerruti	Chloé
Christian Dior	Christian Lacroix	Clements Ribeiro
Costume National	Cynthia Rowley

D&G	Daryl K & Kerrigan	Diane von Furstenberg
Dolce & Gabbana	Donna Karan	Dries Van Noten

Jean Paul Gaultier	Jeremy Scott	Jil Sander
John Galliano	Julien Macdonald