"Romantic rock" was Gilles Rosier's point of reference for Kenzo's exploration of hard-edged, dramatic silhouettes.

Rosier distilled many of the prevailing trends of the season and assembled them in a pastiche of brooding suits, pegged trousers, pleated and voluminous skirts, drop-waist jackets and flat-ankle booties.

Acknowledging the house's tradition of mixing and matching ethnic references, Rosier also showed a series of Middle Eastern-inspired prints and dainty floral appliqués that at times got lost in the mix. While several individual pieces will work fine on their own, the collection failed to create a lasting impression. The Kenzo label still has ground to cover in order to develop a strong and relevant image for today.