Cristina Ortiz went for a tougher-than-usual feeling at Lanvin, restricting her palette to black, navy blue and off-white.

To a rock-and-roll soundtrack, Ortiz sent out long coats with half-hidden belts, low-button mannish jackets, teensy black dresses with side slits and blazers with upturned, silver-studded lapels. Ortiz was intent on making a statement with sheer fabrics, unexpected cutouts and dramatic details like neck bands that trailed down the arm and reattached themselves at the cuff.

Her experiments often worked well. A petrol-blue trench was striking, and several minidresses looked sharp and sexy. On the other hand, some of Ortiz's slashed tops and self-consciously punky looks seemed a bit forced and contrived. The clean, simple silhouettes worked best.