Narciso Rodriguez took his final bow as Loewe's designer today in order to concentrate on his newly revamped signature line.

Rodriguez waved adios to the Spanish luxury-leather house with plenty of the strong, graphic—and saleable—clothes with which he put the label on the fashion map. There was nothing superfluous about his brief, to-the-point collection, executed in black, white and silver. Fitted leather shells toughened up flimsy georgette slip-skirts; wrap jackets and gabardine coats were tightly bound at the waist; a couple of leather coats flirted with an Empire silhouette. Metal-studded shifts looked feminine and chic rather than punky.

Rodriguez closed his show with absolutely clean white jersey-and-crepe evening skirts, flyaway tops and a couple of sequin dresses that would put a giant disco ball to shame.