Perhaps taking a cue from last season's obsession with corseted, wrapped and strapped silhouettes, Missoni toyed with a more overtly adventurous feeling than usual this season, with decidedly mixed results.

The house's well-known staples were all there: Roomy tweed trousers, long zig-zag print coats and colorful turtlenecks all looked great, as did a pale-blue corduroy pantsuit and a floor-grazing trench. Patchwork-inlaid coats, jackets and skirts added a playful spin to Missoni's traditional play of patterns. Less successful were the whalebone-cinched tops, strappy optic dresses and oversize patent-leather trousers; and the intriguing double bag designed to dangle perilously over the shoulder is a pickpocket's dream come true.

What worked best at Missoni were the looks that relied on classic design and well-assembled colors and textures for effect.