After Michael Kors' bold take on country luxe, there's little doubt that equestrian chic will be a recurring theme next Fall. Kors may have been inspired by life on the farm, but there was nothing rough-edged or dowdy about his thoroughbred looks. Riding britches were turned into lean, mean trousers that could be tucked into tall leather boots or worn with double-buckle boyish shoes; cashmere Aran sweaters and bright marigold, kelly green and scarlet turtlenecks looked divine under sinful, double-faced blanket coats to the floor.

Kors kept his collection sharply in focus by consistently emphasizing contrasts: Dramatic capes flowed over skinny jodhpurs and mini-shifts while crisp, colorful piping gave an architectural edge to everything from quilted field skirts to practical leather jackets. The recurring play of opposites was especially successful with the evening looks: A long, beaded bronze lace skirt looked perfect with a casual turtleneck and sporty suede jacket; an ivory sweater coat unceremoniously framed a shimmering evening gown.

It takes considerable talent and experience to pull off such a collection without stumbling onto a minefield of overworked references. It's no coincidence that this Fall marks Michael Kors' 20th anniversary of designing casual yet utterly luxurious clothes.