Martine Sitbon's opening looks—a long, dark, loose overcoat thrown over straight pants, a military jacket and a wrap skirt with a sexy corset—announced that we were in for another rendition of the masculine/feminine play of opposites that has been so prevalent this season.

Sitbon did it well. Leather skirts with lace insets on the side, pert blazers with puffed shoulders, and safari jackets with patch pockets will be functional and eye-catching additions to any wardrobe. Dresses with spider-web embroideries, distressed sides, and tulle and paillette layers were simultaneously flirty and stone-hard. Less interesting were the red-and-black printed cocktail numbers (which came and went without leaving a lasting impression) and the overly revealing lingerie slips.

Still, as a whole, Sitbon's collection offered plenty of strong clothes that are perfectly practical yet manage to stand out from the pack.