As if to prove once and for all that he is up to the task of designing for Givenchy or any other major fashion house, Olivier Theyskens presented what was undoubtedly one of the strongest, most brilliant collections of the season.

With an unerring sense of proportion and color, the Belgian designer showed massive coats that folded upon themselves to become a skirt. A gigantic violet pouf was worn with a wide-knit black cardigan. His all-in-one tweed skirt-and-coat combo was a veritable feat of engineering. Theyskens' poetic experiments did not end there: Knit fur jackets were backed with colorful linings to match their metallic buttons; an imperious strapless white dress came with a fur inset and a sweeping train.

Theyskens lightened his presentation with boxy black suits, skinny white trousers and little mint-julep dresses, proving that he can also create impeccable clothes for everyday life.

What else could he possibly show in under 20 minutes? How about sexy, shiny underwear that's far too fabulous to be worn in private, or sculptured heels with a coy bump in the back? Clearly, Theyskens is anything but short of ideas.