The hard-edged, almost austere look that Miuccia Prada recently championed has clearly become a major influence this season, so it's not surprising that her Fall collection continued to push forth a no-nonsense, pared-down aesthetic.

Working almost exclusively in dark gray, black and brown, Prada reworked some of the looks that first made Carnaby Street chic. Fur-trimmed, paneled coats with geometric fastenings worn over skintight leggings brought to mind a nouvelle Twiggy, as did the coquettish minidresses with bright orange trim. Steering clear of superficial connotations, Prada made sure to keep her collection varied. For every mod shift there was a long, pleated skirt, a flowing Empire-waist prairie robe or a smart capelet. A couple of copper-and-white swirl dresses, a plush everyday fur and several impeccable jackets spoke of understated cool, as did her all-important accessories. Patent Mary Janes and tall lace-up granny boots were worn with thick stockings, while enormous tan bags with extra-long straps swung nonchalantly at the hip.

By veering away from excessive decoration and facile status references, Prada succeeded in creating a perfectly fashionable anti-fashion wardrobe.