How did newly appointed Pucci designer Julio Espada tackle the task of reviving one of the world's most beloved, instantly recognizable labels? With a subtle touch, a modern approach and, above all, lots of respect for a legacy.

Espada reworked five of Pucci's quintessential swirling floral designs, but mixed them with sharp-cut solids that reflect an urban, practical sensibility. Innovations like a miniature mosaic grid print that creates a trompe-l'oeil tweed effect, a knit Fair Isle sweater with a traditional Pucci print pattern and side-button coats with turtleneck band collars all steered the collection clear of nostalgia.

Espada was successful in reestablishing Pucci as a name to follow, giving the clothes a contemporary spin while maintaining the house's commitment to elegance with details like bright silk linings, logo-engraved pearl buttons and, of course, the rich, vivid palette that made Emilio Pucci "the prince of prints" more than 30 years ago.

It will be interesting to see whether Espada will maintain these high standards while taking more daring risks in seasons to come.