Greek-born Sophia Kokosalaki left little doubt that she is here to stay as one of London's most promising young designers.

Kokosalaki continued to refine many of her signature themes—dresses and tops were painstakingly pleated and draped, then bound with leather bands and grommet straps to create a look that is both classically feminine and unflinchingly hard-core. But the big news in her Fall collection was the more austere tuxedo suits, straight trousers, piped overcoats and straight skirts, which relied only on precision of cut and subtle details like tone-on-tone piping for effect.

Subtle mixes of olive, tan and brown referenced military uniforms; a series of salmon, red and black dresses showed that, with only a few collections under her belt, Kokosalaki already has distinctive style and a highly developed and original sense of color.