Josephus Thimister's show invitation announced that the designer was "back in action" after a six-month sabbatical.

Thimister celebrated by covering the floor of the Bataclan music hall with white carnations, which were promptly stomped on by rigid girls in military-inspired trenchcoats, tight pencil skirts and lace-up ankle booties. He then went on to experiment with long fur skirts, leather coats with pointy shoulders, rough-cut tops with little capes in the back, putty leather suits and snakeskin jackets.

Thimister's main strength has always been his self-assured sense of direction, but this collection failed to present important new ideas. Still, it's very welcome news that Thimister is once again in business; hopefully by next season he will have fully regained his stride.