"East West Techno Fantasy" was the ominous title of Vivienne Tam's collection, foreshadowing allusions to The Matrix and Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Tongue-in-cheek references, however, are not enough to see a collection through. Tam's paint-drip tees, motorcycle jackets and moleskin trousers worked because they looked natural and unpretentious, but the show ran into trouble the moment Tam toyed with plush tiger jackets, gigantic and unfeasible fur-trimmed ponchos and puzzling cracked-patch skirts. Ditto for the evening looks, which included everything from feathered and beaded tunics to lotus-print dolman dresses.

On the upside, Tam showed several moleskin pants, embroidered sweaters and jersey tops that would be a worthwhile addition to any basic wardrobe. Sometimes, less is definitely more.