February 28, 2002 Milan
In Dell'Acqua's fall collection, that strand of design, abstracted from the tradition of Saint Laurent, turned rock'n'roll in a Milanese kind of way. His loopy black carpet-knit jackets recalled Saint Laurent's seminal 1940s collection, but were also cousins of this season&'s knits at Balenciaga and Helmut Lang. Dell'Acqua's personal signatures, meanwhilechiffon dresses and delicate underwearshowed through in handkerchief-point crinkled shifts, sheer ivory pieces scattered with silver sequins, and the lace-edged satin lingerie peeping out amongst the knits. He also merged classic tuxedo dressing with sport elements, transposing the satin ribbon of a "smoking" trouser onto cashmere sweat pants. The collection was at its hippest in its simpler moments, though, where Dell'Acqua applied his tailoring skills to neat shrunken jackets, A-line skirts and flares in navy blue cotton.