One day, you're just another pair of starving Paris designers with a miniscule business and no name recognition. The next day, Björk—the one-woman Medici of avant-garde fashion—wears your dress to the Cannes Film Festival and presto! Retailers are beating a path to your garret.

That's essentially what happened to Alexandre Morgado and Matthieu Bureau, the design duo known as Alexandre Matthieu. And while they're not exactly taking business away from Ralph Lauren—this was only their fourth formal show—the duo is establishing an idiosyncratic, artsy look in the vein of Dries Van Noten and Jean Paul Gaultier.

Fluttery silks and chiffons, some printed with what looked like Icelandic runes, were anchored by tailored pants or long coats. Green leather pieces were inset with white leaves. Of course, there was black, including a great-looking sheer sweater constructed from diagonal bands, but Alexandre Matthieu also brought in a welcome draft of color, including russet, lemon and lavender. Those retailers should drop Björk a thank-you note.