Like many designers, Ennio Capasa of Costume National went dark for Fall showing a collection that was mostly black, lit here and there by some winter white ensembles and touches of gold. As somber as the palette was, these were clothes not for goths, but for well-bred girls who like to think of themselves as "bad." Costume's hooded coat, leather bombers and cigarette-slim pants conjured nothing so much as a twenty-first century Sandra Dee.

Capasa was on-trend with his furiously furry jackets (a major theme of this season), but generally offered individual pieces rather than a fully focused collection. Which is not to say that some of those pieces weren't highly desirable. The smoking pantsuits and the short-as-they come mini dresses cinched with masculine-style leather belts (perfect for cocktails at eight) were strong, and provided an alternative—perhaps an antidote?—to some of the tougher leather looks, which seemed more suitable for an evening of chain-smoking and high-decibel rock.