Giorgio Armani
MILAN, March 4, 2002
By Sarah Mower
"No to excess, no to overdone nudity; no to the obvious and commonplace, no to sensationalism"these words are Giorgio Armani's creative response to the realities of life post 9/11.Armani's vision has always been about melding the utilitarian practicality of menswear with the softening influence of innovative fabric as evidenced in his first sequence of gray herringbone and Prince of Wales jackets shown with fluid pants. The soft-but-strong structure of an Armani jacket is a design landmark, and he emphasized it throughout cutting neatly fitting shapes with slightly pointed shoulders. Bellboy looks, short spencers and strap-fastened jackets were all teamed with voluminous pants, and many outfits were accessorized with the designer's new bags (the best was a large, dark brown leather boxy oblong style with handles). Through over eighty looks, Armani experimented with variations on the trouser theme from harem pants to knickers to pleat-fronted styles. He even pushed the design of the baggiest pants so that they appeared as a kind of skirt caught into stirrups near floor-level.
For evening, Armani sparkled via bugle-beaded bustiers, cutaway sequin dresses over pants andthe shining standouta silver beaded jacket with a matching flower in the lapel.
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Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein Antonio Berardi As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Eley Kishimoto Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang House of Jazz Hugo Boss Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ Istvan Francer -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Michelle LoweHolder Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Som Philosophy Pierrot Prada -
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Rafael Lopez Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Warren Noronha -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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