The name Jil Sander has always been a touchstone to subtle-minded, confident women who demand rigor and sophistication in their clothes. With Milan Vukmirovic in the design seat, the label has seen an infusion of comfort and color to which its avid followers should have no problem relating.

For Fall, the essential Sander values were reflected in two immaculate white coats, one in a bathrobe shape with a knitted collar, the other cut collarless in double-face cashmere. A strong line in office-appropriate cardigan knits ran through the show sometimes matched with long ribbed scarves and beanie hats. Those desperately seeking an interesting pantsuit, meanwhile, will find it in sand-colored needlecord, tailored on the bias with a stand-up collar—a creative twist on one of fall's ubiquitous fabrics. New to this formerly stark collection is the influx of the color purple and a concentration on feminine eveningwear—most successfully in a simple black velvet knee-length dress with long gathered sleeves, and a sweatshirt worn over a narrow beaded floor-length skirt.

Vukmirovic is not an abstract thinker, but he brought a new warmth to the collection by paying attention to the ideas of the women who surround him. "The color purple came from listening to Prince," he said. "The rest was my women friends telling me they wanted the knitwear, jogging pieces and scarves we'd done in the menswear collection."