Julien Macdonald
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2002
By Sarah Mower
It's been a long time since models took it as part of their job description to va-va-voom to the end of the runway, throw a pose and come on to the photographers in a "fabulous me" kind of way. So long, indeed, that the joy-starved London crowd was seized by a sudden gratitude to Julien Macdonald for putting on a show that included go-for-it girls, glitter, gold and, yes, glam rock.In a take-no-prisoners collection, Macdonald referenced the '70s heyday of David Bowie and Jerry Hall in flashy embroidered jackets, leopard spots, shaggy fox furs, sexy knickers, jumpsuits and unbuttoned satin vests. Exaggerated Bowie quiffs, big teased hairdos and fuchsia lipstick turned up Macdonald's aesthetic to full volume, a message that will be heard loud and clear by women who also love Versace and Roberto Cavalli.
What's the difference for Macdonald between designing in London and at Givenchy in Paris? "I can be cheeky and sexy and take risks here," he said. "Paris is bourgeois; in London, it's more fun. I'm swinging back to the old days of David Bowie and Anita Pallenberg, when British celebrity ruled the world. I just wanted to show my respect for London by showing here."
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Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein Antonio Berardi As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Eley Kishimoto Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang House of Jazz Hugo Boss Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ Istvan Francer -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Michelle Lowe–Holder Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Som Philosophy Pierrot Prada -
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Rafael Lopez Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Warren Noronha -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
