Unlike some of the designers she's often grouped with, Katayone Adeli doesn't attack the latest trends with a sledgehammer; she checks in with the current mood and then goes off and quietly puts her own idiosyncratic slant on it. That's what has made her a star to the hip young women who stock up on her ever-popular pants and ultra-feminine dresses.

Adeli's Fall collection was true to form. The tiny, casual presentation she did at the last minute let editors see the clothes up close—all the better to admire the intricate passementerie on a fitted black wool jacket, the delicate smocking on a brown velvet top and the whimsy of a chunky, grandma-made-it sweater coat. While Adeli tends to think in terms of items rather than collections, she did work in a few tailored jackets that, paired with those low-slung trousers, would make a top-to-toe outfit for a major occasion. But this season's star is likely to be Adeli's take on that '70s classic, the army-green parka, which she sweetened with a sepia-toned wallpaper-print lining.