At Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs found a way to surprise and delight by turning his attention to the neglected middle ground between the glamorous and the everyday. Using a delicate, almost-there color palette and perfectly calibrated details, Jacobs conjured a sense of filtered 1950's glamour that was never so exaggerated as to become literal.

The elegant and the rumpled were literally fused in the designer's first two outfits, trompe l'oeil dresses that joined silky tops to knee-length alpaca skirts perfectly accessorized with satin Louis heel slingbacks. A throw-it-on attitude toward the ultra-luxe was cultivated throughout, especially via herringbone tweed pencil skirts with washed silk camisoles and casual white rabbit bombers. Jacobs paid attention to the LV monogram by scattering it discreetly over a black silk bomber paired with a sexy tight skirt, or embedding it in the little metallic mesh shoulder bag— this season's quiet, yet undisputed monogram statement.

There was room for pure luxury, too, in crinkled lamé tops or sheared mink skirts banded with silver sequins. But the measure of Jacobs' success in holding back from overstatement was in the way he made the appearance of a deep red cashmere cardigan—or the simplicity of a deep rose lipstick—suddenly seem like the height of glamour.