For many at Marc Jacobs' show tonight, it was hard to forget that the last time this gathering took place was September 10. And while some of the outer trappings were the same—the star-studded front row included the likes of Anthony Kiedis, Sofia Coppola, and Kirsten Dunst—a sense of how things have changed permeated the event. The colorful high spirits of Jacobs' Spring collection have gone, replaced by subdued, achingly beautiful designs that are bound to be among the season's most coveted.

This was a delicate, even ethereal collection that made judicious use of Edwardian touches—seen in the velvet skirts and sheer black tea gowns—and military details like reverse lapels and piping on tailored trousers. The silhouette was long and lean, and most looks were made up of multiple layers—a dress over a T-shirt and trousers, with a waistcoat, for example. But Jacobs balanced his fabrics perfectly, ballasting the featherweight chiffons, cashmeres, crinkly lamé and satin with velveteen, crisp cotton, brocade, and cavalry twill. The palette was limited to shades of ivory and khaki, with occasional shots of azure, wine, or crimson—mostly looks for women, with about a quarter devoted to his growing menswear line.

Like a sunny Sunday morning after a long Saturday night, the collection was lovely, if slightly tinged with melancholy. But if the silver-sequined dazzler of a dress that closed the show is any indication, Jacobs is more than ready for all tomorrow's parties.