February 10, 2002 New York
This was a delicate, even ethereal collection that made judicious use of Edwardian touchesseen in the velvet skirts and sheer black tea gownsand military details like reverse lapels and piping on tailored trousers. The silhouette was long and lean, and most looks were made up of multiple layersa dress over a T-shirt and trousers, with a waistcoat, for example. But Jacobs balanced his fabrics perfectly, ballasting the featherweight chiffons, cashmeres, crinkly lamé and satin with velveteen, crisp cotton, brocade, and cavalry twill. The palette was limited to shades of ivory and khaki, with occasional shots of azure, wine, or crimsonmostly looks for women, with about a quarter devoted to his growing menswear line.
Like a sunny Sunday morning after a long Saturday night, the collection was lovely, if slightly tinged with melancholy. But if the silver-sequined dazzler of a dress that closed the show is any indication, Jacobs is more than ready for all tomorrow's parties.