Markus Lupfer
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 19, 2002
By Sarah Mower
Markus Lupfer's collection, shown in a lofty church in Notting Hill, was inspired by woodland nymphs, fairies and elves—part of the Lord of the Rings tendency that is surfacing here and there this season.Lupfer may have delved into his German romantic imagination for the storybook sources of this show, but what he produces is always done with a light, accessible spin. He mixed browns, dusty pinks and soft, iridescent greens in layerings of antique leather and chiffon that moved his collection out of the ladylike mode he established in the late '90s, and into something hipper. For Fall, his emphasis was on texture and detail: pony-skin jackets, nut-brown leather skirts that showed a kick of black-and-white print in the pleats, delicate lace-printed chiffon dresses over cashmere sweaters. Standouts were his coats, especially a swinging modernized riding coat seamed to curve into the waist and a geometrically pieced brown-and-black felt patchwork overcoat studded with wooden beads. With the addition of tribal-influenced braids and leather and coin jewelry, the result was a boho look Lupfer's Portobello followers will relate to.
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Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein Antonio Berardi As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Eley Kishimoto Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang House of Jazz Hugo Boss Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ Istvan Francer -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Michelle Lowe–Holder Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Peter Som Philosophy Pierrot Prada -
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Rafael Lopez Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Warren Noronha -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
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