In an effort, perhaps, to escape forever being known as the designer of Björk's Oscars swan dress, Macedonian-born, London-based designer Marjan Pejoski fled the scene of the crime, as it were, and staged his Fall 2002 collection in Paris.

While Pejoski's beaded re-creation of Indian erotica recalled the designer's Spring 2001 collection (which featured Disney cartoon characters in pornographic poses), this show was rated PG. Suede anklets and boots gave a Peter Pan feel to coats and dresses that bloomed with embroidered foliage, flowers and butterfly wings. Pejoski's signature beadwork added some flash throughout, while patchwork jackets looked like they had been crafted by a savage child with a natural gift for needlework. The collection was strongest when it combined whimsy with discipline, as in the navy man-sized, sleeveless jacket embroidered with water lilies.

Though Pejoski's collection was very much attuned to London's current Lord of the Rings fixation, it nonetheless marked a development in the designer's career, showing that he could deliver a signature collection without gimmicks.