Peter Som, a Parson's graduate with a degree in art history, interned with Calvin Klein and Michael Kors before accepting a position with Bill Blass. One of the five designers singled out by Vogue as a member of "generation next" in their celebration of American fashion, Som's first show was a much anticipated event that did not

Som described the collection as "fiercely feminine," and delivered on that promise with a show executed in a palette of navy and black that opened with Alek Wek in a strapped and buckled harness coat. Although the sharp-edged, hardware-embellished theme featured heavily, this confident collection was actually strongest in its softer moments. (It's hard to look at harnesses without thinking of Helmut Lang.)

Pieces like a midnight sheath worn with an embroidered obi, and a wrap skirt with floating ribbon streamers, were both pretty and sharp. Fluid slouch pants, paired with a tank and shearling vest-wrap, and a well-tailored wool smoking suit with innovative sleeve details, showcased the elegance and all-American ease for which Som is becoming known.