Rafael Lopez
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2002
By Sarah Mower
Fur hasn't been seen on the London runway since the late Princess Margaret was a girl. But this season, it's a growing trend being pursued, unexpectedly, by some of the city's youngest designers. One of these is Rafael Lopez, a Spaniard who passed through Central Saint Martins College of Art and various jobs in Italy before returning to show his own collection here.Lopez clearly has an appreciation for femininity and a Latin yearning for luxe: Witness his jacket made of strips of sage-colored mink, and coat of patchworked leather, suede and chinchilla. His collection looked best when he used dark-chocolate silk velvet in casual shapes—like bomber jackets or low-slung cropped pants that laced at the side of the leg—or black velvet for a slouchy sweatshirt and swishy full skirt. Other great show pieces were a sculptural suede bubble skirt and an oversized cardigan. Many of Lopez's evening dresses, pieced and patchworked in Art Deco patterns, were overly influenced by Balenciaga's "Victorian" collection—but that's far from a rare phenomenon this season. And while the fashion press waits impatiently for young designers to get over Ghesquière, it's allotting creative credits to those who show sparks of their own individuality. On that count—and boosted by the fact that his small Summer collection flew at retail—Lopez has officially joined the "worth watching" list.
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Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein Antonio Berardi As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Eley Kishimoto Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang House of Jazz Hugo Boss Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ Istvan Francer -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Michelle Lowe–Holder Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Peter Som Philosophy Pierrot Prada -
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Rafael Lopez Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Warren Noronha -
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Zac Posen
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