February 13, 2002 New York
The designer kept silhouettes clean and close to the body, lending texture to his outfits by juxtaposing humble and high-scale, rough and supple: cotton cargo pants worn with a soft ruffled chiffon shirt and a supple velvet jacket, for example, or a cropped embroidered shearling jacket over a clinging velvet gown.
Jackets are making a concerted comeback, and Lauren offered a baker's dozen, each with its own attitude. Downtown hipsters will pick the cropped, fitted styles, or put the reworked chalk-stripe morning coat with a pair of jeans; uptown types will love the ladylike styles that hug the waist and flare slightly over the hips.
The biggest news was Lauren's new strength in eveningwear, which ranged from stay-at-home elegancea beaded cashmere sweater and wool flannel pantsto the all-out glamour of embroidered silk gowns. Being in a black mood never looked so good.