Roland Mouret
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 19, 2002
By
The excitement in watching Roland Mouret is the way he walks a fine line between French romanticism and the London gutter. As a Frenchman, he's obsessed with making beautiful fabrics run over a woman's body like a whispered compliment; as a guy who lives in London, he knows a Gallic cliché when he sees one.Mouret's clothes are for women who can't stand overdressing at night, but still want to turn on the seduction. Which they can do perfectly in a chiffon dress with billowing sleeves, or a dramatically simple neck-to-floor column of black jersey that turns to show a naked back. Newer for Mouret this season is his addition of structured tailoring, like belted jackets with strong shoulders, bouclé pants and a navy trenchcoat with overstitched seaming, all with a faintly '40s air. Even more impressive is the changing backdrop against which Mouret's clothes are shown. What was once an off-schedule date in gritty Bermondsey is now an affair amongst gleaming chandeliers in Christie's. Flattery will get you everywhere.
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