Los Angeles-based designer Rick Owens was supposed to make his New York debut with his Spring show, but cancelled after the September 11 terrorist attacks. Today he presented a Fall collection entitled "Sparrow" that showed the technical skill and romantic-goth vision that's won him a loyal—and burgeoning—fan base. "We've carried him for the last five years, and our business just keeps growing," said Ed Burstell, vice president and general manager of Henri Bendel. "It's a cult; women love the way he fits the body."

The mood of Owens' presentation was somber—a dark, raw space and a sound track of Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop—but the clothes were gently sexy and even cozy. Not one for color (despite his indigenous climate), Owens worked in grays, chalky white, black and taupe. Long clinging dresses were paired with fuzzy ankle-length sweater coats, while soft, baggy corduroy pants looked great with the distressed leather jackets the designer is known for. Judging by a black corduroy tuxedo jacket, Owens can do traditional tailoring, but his real love is innovative draping.

Owens pays as much attention to the back of a garment as its front, creating fishtail trains and clever details, like an unexpected hood made from a swell of fabric. Most outfits were topped by a monkish balaclava helmet, emphasizing the elongated, flowing silhouette and lending a cultish, otherworldly air to the proceedings.