Ruffo Research
MILAN, March 3, 2002
By Sarah Mower
Ruffo Research is a kind of nursery project for new fashion talent. Each year, an independent design company is selected to do two guest collections, enjoying the benefits of Ruffo's extraordinary expertise in producing leather. This fall is the second and final season for Alexandre Matthieu, the French partnership of Alexandre Morgado and Matthieu Bureau.The design duo's signature is a young Parisian version of feminine street-chic, a vision they expressed via seamed corset tops and dresses shown over sweatshirts, and coats and pants decorated with geometric-patterned overstitching. The opportunity to experiment with Ruffo's leather techniques produced distressed chestnut leather jackets, a long cable-stitch cardigan knitted from leather yarn, and what looked like white-painted crackled surfaces on bombers decorated with sliced fringing. The standouts were the gold leather biker coat and satchels, one of which was also gold, reminiscent of army surplus bags.
Alexandre Matthieu's relatively quiet shows came after a succession of edgier Ruffo guest designers: Véronique Branquinho, Raf Simons, A.F. Vandevorst and Sophia Kokosalaki. Speculation on who's been headhunted for 2003 will be settled by a formal announcement in April.
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Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein Antonio Berardi As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Eley Kishimoto Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang House of Jazz Hugo Boss Hussein Chalayan -
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Imitation of Christ Istvan Francer -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Malandrino Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marjan Pejoski Markus Lupfer Marni Martine Sitbon Matthew Williamson MaxMara Michael Kors Michelle Lowe–Holder Missoni Miu Miu Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez -
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Peter Som Philosophy Pierrot Prada -
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Rafael Lopez Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Warren Noronha -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
