Strenesse
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, March 4, 2002
By Janet Ozzard
The artsy, retro wave that swept over many of Milan's collections this week—ethnic influences, girlish silhouettes and asymmetrical hemlines—seems to have crested with the Strenesse collection. Strenesse designer Gabriele Strehle has always injected a little downtown gallery-owner attitude into her commercially appealing sportswear; but this season it looks like she bought a loft in SoHo, c. 1985, and has Laurie Anderson coming over for dinner.Strehle showed a mostly black collection heavy with Japanese references such as kimono sleeves, torso-wrapping obi belts, and the rosy-toned print that leavened the monochrome palette, showing up in loose blouses and fluid, knee-length dresses. While there were good-looking pieces with appeal to any serious fashion follower—a generously cut black trench and some gleaming, feminine black satin dresses—Strehle stuck too close to a bygone—albeit important—fashion era.
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Fall 2002 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alexandre Matthieu Alice Roi Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Anne Klein Antonio Berardi As Four -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Benjamin Cho Bernhard Willhelm Betsey Johnson Bill Blass Blaak Boudicca Bruce Burberry Prorsum -
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Cacharel Calvin Klein Collection Carolina Herrera Celine Chalayan Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Clements Ribeiro Comme des Garçons Costume National -
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D&G Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Dries Van Noten -
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Eley Kishimoto Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani -
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Fendi -
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Gary Graham Gianfranco Ferré Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hamish Morrow Helmut Lang House of Jazz Hugo Boss -
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Imitation of Christ Istvan Francer -
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Jean Paul Gaultier Jeremy Scott Jil Sander John Galliano Julien Macdonald Junya Watanabe -
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Katayone Adeli Kenneth Cole New York -
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Lagerfeld Gallery Lanvin Lawrence Steele Loewe Louis Vuitton Luella -
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Peter Som Philosophy Pierrot Prada -
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Rafael Lopez Ralph Lauren Richard Edwards Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Roland Mouret Ruffo Research Russell Sage -
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Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse -
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Valentino Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Versus Viktor & Rolf -
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Warren Noronha -
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Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen
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