She’s got legs. That’s not the message the fashion pack expects from Giorgio Armani, but from the minute his first model walked out in a black A-line mini coat—with high heels—it was clear his Emporio Armani girl was dashing off in a new direction. The ’60s are in the air, and Emporio has caught the kicky feeling. Armani’s version of short and cute steered clear of vintage rehash while leaving the line’s reputation for androgyny behind.

That was a refreshing departure, and it made Emporio Armani accessible to young women on the hunt for ideas to integrate into a fall look. The designer mixed textures, soft jackets and flippy skirts, chiefly in his signature palette of black, white and gray, with a few floral prints and a sprinkling of sparkle to pretty things up. There were variations galore, but mod striped mohair sweaters, double-layered skirts with a stylized poppy print, a firefighter’s leather-edged mac and a couple of zippy little leather jackets stood out. For evening, there was a lot of shadow play in opaque and sheer georgette and skimpy black satin dresses with diamanté clasps. The only girl to wear color was the last one out: Milla Jovovich, the face of Emporio’s advertising, wore a pink ruched frock with black shoulder straps—accessorized with a sunny smile.