The historical references included swaggering Napoleonic uniforms and the delicate empire dresses of the Empress Josephine and her court ladies. Floor-sweeping coats in black cashmere or brown leather came with straps and buckles in place of frogging. Breeches turned into zipped, cropped pants, and the puffed sleeve of the Directoire transformed into tightly seamed jackets lined in fur. All this was mixed in with stylized studded, zippered leather motorcycle pants and the kind of operatic collars that are the designer's signature.
Although Ferré operates on his own in terms of personal inspiration, the collection hit on the general trend for a raised-waist silhouette and an inflated shoulder line. It remains to be seen, however, just who will brave the sheer evening gowns with black lace panties fashioned into what looked like the pattern of an imperial shield.